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Wednesday, March 16, 2016

Tutorial: Neutral Cut Crease on Monolids

Here's the before and after!

This is without tape or glue!

1. With a blending brush, roughly create the shape of your fake "crease" with a brown eyeshadow. I personally prefer using a tapered blending brush for this. Monolids tend to have a super flat plane, and blending the way we're usually taught to with a fluffy blending brush usually ends up looking messy and badly blended. You need a lot more control with the brush. Gently wash an eyeshadow that's a match with your skin tone (if you can't find a perfect match, you can go lighter) above this crease. It'll make blending easier later. 

2. Use a pencil brush to really define the line of the fake "crease" with a darker brown eyeshadow. 

3. Now that's you have your "crease", use it as a guide to blend the brown eyeshadow outwards and upwards. I'm still using a tapered blending brush for this. 

4. Fill the gap in the bottom with a light shade (I went with light taupe since I find it most flattering on my skin tone). See how crisp the "crease" is looking?

5. Take a colour that's about 2 shades darker than the light shade and gently blend it into the inner and outer corners. Apply the colour to the corners and blend inwards in a "<" sort of shape. I find for my eyes, it's most flattering for the outer corner to be blended to the point where it's nearly half my eye, and the inner corner is only about 1/4 of my eye.

6. Repeat step 5 with the dark brown, only stick to about 1/2 of the area you covered in step 5. Since monolids don't come with a crease, we really have to work on creating dimension to avoid looking like we got a botched up plastic surgery. It's ok if you're losing your "crease" with the blending, it's supposed to happen.

7. Take a black eyeshadow and redraw the "crease" line with an eyeliner brush.

8. Go over the line repeatedly with the dark brown shade, applied with a pencil brush. Do this until the line is soft.

9. Line it with a liquid liner. If you're not planning to use lashes, skip the rest of this tutorial and simply line your lower lashline with the light taupe eyeshadow (or go with silver or gold to make your eyes pop). I find doing anything with your lower lashline tend to make monolids look too bottom heavy without false lashes. If you're planning to wear falsies, carry on.

10. With a black (dark brown if you want something more subtle) eyeliner, line 1/5 of the inner and outer corners of your lower lashline.

11. I prefer applying falsies now. False lashes tend to alter the shape of my eyes so much, I need it as a guide on where to blend the lower lashline make up. Use a pencil brush to blend out the eyeliner on your bottom lashline with the brown shade.

12. Clean up fall out, go nuts with concealer, draw the inner corners with a liquid liner (optional), and your DONE!

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